The Upper Freehold and Allentown Historic Farmland Byway Tour enhances the Department of Transportation’s scenic roadway program because it captures the unique agricultural, historical, environmental and cultural traditions in these colonial towns. Upper Freehold has 4,514 acres of preserved open space. In addition there are 6,774 acres in the Farmland Preservation Program as of October 2005. This is a colonial township where history meets the present. Allentown (founded in 1706) has remained essentially untouched by modern development and remains one of the largest contiguous historic districts in New Jersey. Before 1889 Allentown was included in the jurisdiction of the township, after 1889 it became a separate borough.

Located in the Southwest portion of Monmouth County bordering Ocean, Burlington, and Mercer Counties, Upper Freehold Township comprises 30,144 acres of land. Upper Freehold is just west of the mid-Jersey divide which separates watersheds that drain to the Delaware River from those which drain to the Atlantic Ocean. Upper Freehold is located within three watersheds, Assunpink Creek, Doctor’s Creek, and Crosswicks Creek, all of which drain to the Delaware River.

A microcosm of New Jersey’s past and vision for the future, a visit to Upper Freehold and Allentown will present an interactive learning opportunity to those who crave an agricultural experience and at the same time are searching for historic and environmentally sensitive elements. Joining with the unique historical and scenic town of Allentown, Upper Freehold’s scenic tour offers visitors the opportunity to view history in a working agricultural area. The profound beauty of these towns that cut through three watershed areas will move a visitor. More surprising is that Upper Freehold and Allentown are within a twenty-five mile radius of Trenton, New Jersey’s capital and a major metropolitan region. Yet, visitors will say that time has stood still. The twenty-four mile scenic tour offers visitors scenic elements that intersect and illustrate how one community can honor and preserve its traditions with preservation efforts supported by its residents.

The tour begins at the Presbyterian Church (0.0) located on a hill overlooking Allentown and Conines Mill Pond, more commonly referred to as Allentown Pond. The first church was built 1756, which was later replaced in 1837. A steeple and Greek Revival portico were added to this structure in 1856. The congregation, founded in 1720, first worshipped in the former Episcopal meetinghouse across the pond. Many early supporters of revolution belonged to this church, most notably its early ministers: the Reverend Charles McKnight, who later died after being held in a British prison ship and the Reverend Joseph Clark, who served at Valley Forge and Monmouth during the war. Many veterans of the War for Independence, as well as later wars, are buried in the Presbyterian cemetery.

The most notable personage buried here is William Augustus Newell, a former Governor of New Jersey (1857 – 1860) and The Washington Territory. A physician, Newell had befriended Abraham Lincoln in Congress and attended John Quincy Adams, when he collapsed on the floor of congress in 1848. Living in Manahawkin as a young man, Newell witnessed an offshore shipwreck, which cost several lives. Ships which ran aground on the beach in heavy seas were unable to safely evacuate their passengers. This experience inspired him to invent the Breeches Buoy, a means of rescuing passengers from stranded ships by firing a line to which was attached a harness. Later the device was improved by securing a metal car to the line. He then successfully lobbied for a $10,000 appropriation from Congress which established the Life Saving Service, a series of stations along the Atlantic Coast. Eventually the Life Saving Services was combined with a branch of the Revenue Service to create the U.S. Coast Guard. The Newell House (0.1), where he resided, borders the Presbyterian Church property and is located on the corner of High and Main Streets.

Main Street, also known as the Old York Road, was part of one of the earliest routes across New Jersey. Authorized in 1683 by deputy provincial governor Gawen Lawrie, it connected the capitals of East and West Jersey; Perth Amboy and Burlington. Travelers from New York would be ferried to South Amboy and coached through Cranbury to Allentown, where the road continued to Crosswicks en route to Burlington. Evidence of this stage and boat conveyance dates to as early as 1734. Samuel Rogers in partnership with Joseph Borden, who maintained a ship at Bordentown, would offer an alternative route with a spur from Crosswicks to the Delaware.

Crossing Doctors Creek and passing Conines Mill Pond (0.2), the most conspicuous building is the Cafferty’s Old Mill (left) which was in continued use for 250 years (from 1713 to 1963). Originally built by Nathan Allen, the town’s namesake, in 1706 and re-built in 1855, it is the only separate building in Allentown nominated to the National Register of Historic Places. The entire historic district contains more than 220 buildings and represents most known architectural styles from early America. The mill site, which also contained a cloth-fulling mill, served as a quartermaster depot during the Revolutionary War. There are accounts of interrogations here of notorious Pine Robbers, loyalist sympathizers who preyed on patriotic citizens and businesses. The Flemish-bond brick mill house adjacent was built approximately 1800 and represents the finest example of federal architecture in Allentown.

One of the finest examples of Georgian architecture in the entire country is the Imlay House at 28 S. Main Street (0.3). Erected in 1790 by John Imlay, a local boy from New Sharon, who became a West Indian merchant and made his fortune during the Revolution. A complete room is featured at Winterthur Museum in Delaware and wallpaper from the parlor was purchased for display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Today the building houses an artist studio and shops for everyone to enjoy.

Opposite the Imlay House on the west corner of Lakeview Drive was the home of George Middleton. Middleton, a devout Quaker and surprisingly a Democratic Congressman, operated an Underground Railroad station from his tannery, which was located behind the south side of Main Street. Fugitive slaves from the South would be transported from his cousin Enoch’s farm in Crosswicks to Allentown in wagons and hidden in the outbuildings of the tannery.

Local tradition holds that other Quaker households in Upper Freehold were stops on the underground railroad, but it has been impossible to confirm this. It is also very important to realize that in Upper Freehold as well as the rest of Monmouth County slavery was widely practiced. G. R. Hodges in Slavery and Freedom in the Rural North, Madison House 1997 offers the following data from the 1790 census: Upper Freehold had 3,084 whites, 108 free blacks, and 250 slaves!

Not far from Middleton’s on the same side of the street is a local eatery known as Woody’s. Originally know as the Lower Tavern, it served as the site of the most Courts of Admiralty in New Jersey during the Revolutionary War. Here the claims of parties for share of the prizes from ships captured by privateers were adjudicated from 1777 to 1783.

Opposite side of street features the Allentown Public Library, which is housed in the former 1^st Baptist Church and Parsonage. Built by local builders and famed house movers, Elias and Benjamin Rogers in 1879, the edifice was badly damaged by fire in 1972 and subsequently sold to the Allentown Library Association. Restored and maintained by community support, the Library was presented with the best adaptive reuse award by the State Historic Preservation Office in 2005.

Across the street at 7 South Main Street, presently site of a chiropractor’s office, was the site of David Brearley’s home. Brearley, a Lt. Col. In the Continental army, was called to serve as New Jersey’s Chief Justice during the war. He later attended the Constitutional Convention in Philadelphia and chaired the important committee of unresolved matters, where he distinguished himself as a leader of that body.

The present site of DiMattia’s Restaurant was the Cunningham Hotel, originally established in 1776. Here travelers along the Lower York Road would be offered hospitality on their three-day trip from New York to Philadelphia.

At the point of the junction formed by Main Street and Waker Ave. is the Farmer’s National Bank building (0.4). Built in the flatiron style to occupy the triangular lot, this colonial revival building was built in 1905. In 1967 the bank vacated the building which was subsequently damaged by fire in December 2002. It is currently undergoing historic restoration by its present owners.

Opposite at 8 North Main Street is the Allentown Borough Hall, built by the Rogers brothers in 1864, and used as municipal offices since 1978. In front of the building can be seen the large stone used by horse-borne patrons for mounting and dismounting at the colonial market, which stood in the center of Main Street near this location.

At 18 North Main Street is the Jacob Ford House whose rear structure dates to 1780, with the front Greek revival addition to 1830. Ford, a cooper, made barrels in a shop located to the rear of the property.

Opposite at 29 North Main Street, the brick building known as the Beatty House became the warehouse of David McKean in the early 1800’s. The Farmer’s National Bank opened here in 1886 and it also housed Allentown’s first printing press.

At 32 North Main Street which dates to around 1820, is the Upper Tavern. Purchased in 1828 after the death of Dr. George Holcombe, physician and Congressman, by William Butcher, who ran a hotel for travelers there. John Bower located a steam factory at the rear of the property in later years.

Lastly in Allentown at 76 North Main Street is the Federal-style Borden House which dates to the last quarter of the eighteenth century. It is located on the former Probasco farm. At the rear can be seen the potato cellar, outhouse, carriage house and next door a very large barn, which has recently been converted into a commercial photography studio.

Having completed your tour of Allentown, continue northeast along Main Street (Rt. 539) toward Hightstown. Pass the office of Reed Sod Farm (0.9) on your right. This is a family business which has been in existence for over 60 years. A great deal of this land is in the Farmland Preservation Program.

Cross over I-195 and turn right on Rt. 524 (1.4). In colonial times this road was known as the Shrewsbury Trail. On your right is the Frieberger Family Farm. Before dairying in this area became unprofitable, this farm was home to an outstanding Holstein herd. The opposite side of the road was the site of the historic Eglinton Mansion until arsonists burned it in 1974. Thought to have been built in 1706 by William Montgomery, the frame portion received a brick addition by Robert Montgomery in 1773. It became a Monmouth County showplace during the next half-century. On June 24, 1778 British troops under General Clinton camped there days before the Battle of Monmouth. According to a memoir published in 1936 by Samuel Watson, a direct descendent of the Montgomery family, (Those Paris Years, Fleming H. Revell Co.), as the British continued their strategic retreat East on the Shrewsbury Trail, they were taunted by a boy. In retaliation they fired two cannon balls at the Eglinton Mansion, one of which passed through a window and narrowly missed the lady of the house. The other lodged in the wall and was later donated to the Monmouth County Historical Association.

Continue East on Rt. 524. Note on your left the Gravatt Family Farm (2.8) which produces mostly hay and straw. The Gravatts also operate Bent Creek Upland Game Preserve (see Appendix). Cross over Sharon Station Road (3.0) and continue 0.2 miles. Crop Production, a farm supply business is on your left along the former route of the "U.T. Railroad". (See Appendix). In earlier times this spot was known locally as "Hayti". There must have been a large hay or straw press located here sometime, hence the name. Next pass Westhaven Farm (3.9) on the right, owned and operated by the West family and continue to the intersection of Rt. 524 with Imlaystown-Hightstown Road. This intersection is known as Cox’s Corner (4.5), named for Brigadier General James Cox (1753-1810). The Cox family lived at this site on a farm named Box Grove after some impressive boxwood hedges. Cox enlisted at the beginning of the American Revolution as a private in the NJ Regiment and was chosen 1^st Lieutenant. He commanded militia at the battles of Germantown and Monmouth and possibly also at Brandywine. He had attained the rank of Major by the end of the war and was subsequently promoted to Brigadier General in command of the Monmouth Brigade. Cox was elected to the NJ Assembly for several terms and was chosen Speaker during his third term. In 1808 he was elected to Congress, but died suddenly of a stroke in 1810. He is buried in the cemetery at the Old Yellow Meeting House. James was married to Ann Potts of Burlington County, a relative of two signers of the Declaration of Independence, Francis Hopkinson and Thomas McKean. The Coxs produced 14 children. One of their sons moved to Ohio and founded a prominent family. A descendent, James M. Cox, served three terms as governor of Ohio and in 1920 was the Democratic nominee for President of the United States. His Vice President running mate was a rising young politician named Franklin Delano Roosevelt!

Exactly 0.3 miles east of Cox’s Corner and up a long lane to your left is Merino Hill Farm (4.8), also on the National Register of Historic places. These 300 or so acres are the ancestral home of the Wright Family, which has owned the land since 1770. Samuel Gardiner Wright, a Philadelphia Merchant and entrepreneur, established the farm as a country estate. In 1810 he built a handsome brick mansion in Federal style, naming it Merino Hill after his flock of purebred Merino sheep. The foundation animals for this flock were obtained from Spain about 1810. The Merino breed is noted for its fine wool, and these were some of the very first Merino imports to the United States. Previously the Spanish government had refused to allow Merino sheep to be exported. True to his Quaker faith, Wright took a very enlightened view of slavery. In 1816 he purchased Steven Parker from his master and freed him the next year. Parker lived and worked at Merino Hill until his death. Wright also hired free blacks to work at Merino Hill and treated them the same as his white employees. Mr. Wright was also active in politics. He served in the NJ Assembly and was elected to the House of Representatives. Unfortunately he died in 1845 before the new congress had convened. Please note that Merino Hill as well as the other historic residences on the tour are privately owned and not open to the public.

You have now reached the entrance to the Horse Park of New Jersey (5.9). This 147-acre facility is the result of a unique public-private partnership. The NJ Department of Environmental Protection purchased the land with Green Acres Funds. The NJ Department of Agriculture continues to assist in the development of the park into a world-class equine exhibition facility. The state’s equine industry and private-not-for-profit groups worked together to design the Park, which is operated under contract with the Department of Agriculture. Park trustees and hundreds of volunteers have donated over 200,000 hours for beautification and fund raising efforts since the Park opened in 1983. It has rapidly evolved to be one of the finest horse show facilities on the East Coast.

East Branch Road enters Rt. 524 from the left a little further down the road (6.1). This road can be used to access the Assunpink Wildlife Management Area. (See Appendix). Further on is a large granite marker on the left side of the road on which is inscribed Ye Olde Robbins Burial Place (also known as Covell Hill) (6.2). The patriarch of the family was Daniel Robbins who became a landowner in Monmouth County in 1695. The cemetery itself is accessible by a partially overgrown trail that leads uphill from Rt. 524. Of particular note is a sandstone grave marker surrounded by a rectangle of iron pipe. The faint letters on the stone read Deborah Lincoln/Ag. 3y 4m/May 15, 1720. She was the daughter of Mordecai and Hannah Salter Lincoln. (For more on the Lincolns see Imlaystown).

From here continue East 0.5 miles and turn right on Chambers Road (6.7). Go 0.3 miles to Rue’s Road and turn right (7.1). Drive through the scenic wooded area known as Stone Hill. The British baggage train under the command of the Hessian General Knyphausen en route to join Clinton’s main force prior to the Battle of Monmouth traveled this road. Go under an overpass for I-195 (8.5) and Ashurst, the Rue family farm is on your right. One of the most productive farms in all of New Jersey, this farm has been owned by the same family since 1803. Potatoes and dairy were once the main crops as was true of most Upper Freehold Township farms. Now spinach, corn, small grains, and beef cattle are grown. Once you reach County Route 526, turn left (east) to continue on the Main Byway or explore Imlaystown by following the directions below.

As you reach Rt. 526, cross over it and bear to the right at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. There will be a sign directing you to the Happy Apple Inn as you bear right. There will be a pond on your left that was formed by damming Doctor’s Creek, in order to power a gristmill and a sawmill. You are now entering Imlaystown (founded 1690), when john Baker patented a large land tract of 2,100 acres. A portion of this land was sold to Richard Salter Sr. who built the gristmill about 1700 which still stands. Salter also hired Mordecai and Abraham Lincoln, ironmongers from Massachusetts. Mordecai married Salter’s daughter as was previously mentioned. They were the great-great grandparents of President Abraham Lincoln. The Imlay family purchased part of this tract of land in 1727 and the town was subsequently named for them. At one time the town contained twelve or fifteen dwellings, a gristmill, sawmill, tannery, tavern, store, post office, wheelwright and blacksmith shop (Gordon’s Gazetter, 1834). There was also a medical practice here continuously from 1810 until quite recently. It is interesting to note that two of the doctors, George F. Fort and William A. Newell were subsequently elected Governor of New Jersey.

If you wish to bypass the remaining portion of the byway and take the spur via Davis Station Road, proceed as follows:

Exit Imlaystown between Salter’s Mill and the Upper Freehold Municipal Building. (Imlaystown was the seat of government for Upper Freehold from its founding in 1731 until 1975 when the new Municipal Building on Route 539 was completed). Cross the dam which creates Imlaystown Pond from Doctor’s Creek. You are now on Davis Station Road, named for one of the stops on the U.T. Railroad (see appendix). At the fork formed by the intersection with Meirs Road, bear right and continue to route 539. The Cream Ridge Golf Club is directly in front of you. Turn left and then after 0.2 miles turn right into a dirt road. This is Walnford Road and will take you directly to Walnford.

After having enjoyed Imlaystown, go back to Rt. 526 and turn right (east) if from the Spur. Those continuing along from the Main Byway Route will already be heading east on Rt. 526 after making a left from Rue’s Road (9.4). On your left are miles of black four-board fence belonging to Perretti Farms, the largest Standardbred breeding operation in New Jersey. Standardbreds are harness horses which race on either the trot or the pace. In New Jersey they compete at Freehold Raceway and the Meadowlands. Consisting of between 700 and 800 acres, this operation is home to more than 400 horses during the height of the breeding season. At the present time six stallions are standing here, including the top sires Matt’s Scooter and Muscles Yankee as well as the 2004 Trotting Triple Crown champion, Windsong’s Legacy.

On your right along Doctor’s Creek is Clayton Park. (See Appendix) As you pass the main entrance to Perretti Farm (11.0) on your right and as you reach the cross road you will see Old Yellow Meeting House Road to your left (11.1). You are now at "Red Valley" so named because of the distinctive red clay soils in this area. Those wishing to visit the Old Yellow Meeting House will make a left and follow the directions below. Anyone wishing to continue on the Main Byway will make a right on Red Valley Road and follow the directions for the Main Byway accordingly.

If you turn left you will arrive at Old Yellow Meeting House. The history of the Old Yellow Meeting House starts before there was a meetinghouse. It was originally known as the Crosswicks Baptist Meeting, or Upper Freehold Baptist Meeting, and was a branch of the Middletown Baptist Church. There is a list of 47 charter members who were released from the Mother church to form a new congregation. Services were held in member’s homes as early as 1700. In 1720 Thomas and Rachel Salter donated 25 acres of land for a house of worship and a burying ground. Thomas was the brother of Hannah who married Mordecai Lincoln. They were the great-great grandparents of President Abraham Lincoln. The original church burned, was replaced by the present Meeting House in 1737, and became informally known as the Old Yellow Meeting House. It is the oldest Baptist Meeting House in New Jersey and believed to be the third oldest in the USA. May 10, 1766, a formal service was held declaring this Upper Freehold congregation a separate church, no longer a branch of the Mother Church of Middletown.

The first pastor at Old Yellow Meeting House was the Reverend David Jones, a most interesting individual. In 1772 Mr. Jones went on a gospel mission to the Shawnee and Delaware Indians which was not successful. He returned to Imlaystown and became and extreme patriot for the American Cause. This earned him such enmity from the Tories of Monmouth County that, believing his life to be in danger, he moved to another church in Chester County, Pennsylvania. His famous sermon, "Defensive War in A Just Cause, Sinless," was printed and circulated throughout the Colonies.

In 1776 the Reverend Jones became a chaplain in the American Army and was posted to Fort Ticonderoga. He served in two campaigns under General Horatio Gates and then was transferred to the command of General "Mad Anthony" Wayne. He was with Wayne at the battles of Brandywine, Germantown, and Monmouth. He was chaplain at Valley Forge and in all the campaigns until the surrender at Yorktown. The British were so disturbed by his activities that at one point General Howe offered a reward for his death or capture.

The parsonage that is still standing was built around 1830. Additions were made to both the meetinghouse and parsonage at unknown dates. The Meeting House is built on exact compass settings. The long sides face North and South and the parsonage side is west. At sometime a bay was added on the North side and the interior design was altered. The pulpit and balcony changed places. The original parsonage appears to have had only two rooms and a hall. The eastern section was a later addition. The house of worship has not been used on a regular basis since the 1890’s when the Upper Freehold Baptist Church moved to the building they had constructed in Imlaystown. However, each year a service followed by a luncheon is held the last Sunday in July, and there is also a yearly Thanksgiving Eve service. The oldest dated grave in the cemetery is that of John Salter, son of Thomas and Rachel, who died August 29, 1723. There are unmarked stones thought to be older, and it is believed that there are unmarked graves. As you walk through the cemetery you will see these unmarked stones, and also many interesting stones with folk art designs. There are veterans of the American Revolution and of subsequent United States wars buried here. United States flags mark these graves. Many generations of some families starting in the 1770’s or possible earlier, and continuing to the present are interred here. Some of the old dates are difficult to read. Since 1977 the Meeting House, parsonage and burial grounds have been restored under the auspices of the Friends of the Old Yellow Meeting House. This is an association composed of interested people and formed to support the preservation and care of the OYMHY. Before the restoration of both the Meeting House and parsonage which was started in 1977, both of the buildings had deteriorated badly. Their restoration is now complete. Also among the Friends accomplishments are having the Meeting House placed on the National Register of Historic Places, and compiling a color slide program with accompanying 30 minute sound track entitled THE OLD YELLOW MEETING HOUSE: PAST/PRESENT/FUTURE. When you have finished contemplating the historic beauty of Old Yellow Meeting House, go back to Red Valley and crossing over Rt. 526 continue straight on Red Valley Road.

Once on Red Valley Road from Rt. 526, the first farm on your right is Fair Winds Farm (11.3) owned and operated by the Mullen family. It is also a Standardbred breeding facility. Note that all of the horse breeding farms along the Byway Tour have been placed in the Farmland Preservation Program. This means that they must remain in agriculture in perpetuity and can never be developed.

You will now come to an intersection with Burlington Path Road (12.1). The Burlington Path was based on an Indian trail and in colonial times it linked Shrewsbury on the coast with Burlington on the Delaware. There is also a sign directing you to the United Methodist Church. On your left (south) but not visible from the road, are two houses on the National Register of Historic Places, The Coward-Smith House and the Coward-Hendrickson House. Both are privately owned and not open to the public. On your right as you top a gently rise is the Emley’s Hill Methodist Church (13.0), established 1790. In the past this hill was sometimes referred to as "Screamin’ Hill or Hollerin’ Hill", a reference to the religious fervor of the congregation.

Go through the cross road of Burlington Path Road with Meirs Road (14.4). The Gamblers Ridge Golf Course is on the left. (See Appendix). At the intersection with Harvey Road (14.8), note the ruins of an 18^th Century sandstone building on the right. This was a forge and was in use for horse shoeing until after World War I. At one time it was thought to have been operated by the brother Mordecai and Abraham Lincoln who were previously mentioned. However, recent research has established that their forge was elsewhere in the township. At this point you are in what was once the town of Fillmore, named for President Millard Fillmore (1850-1853). It had previously been known as "Varmint Town". Concord Stud Farm, another Standardbred breeding farm, is also on the right. It is owned and operated by the Meirs family. Next on the route is the hamlet of Cream Ridge, named for a ridge of especially fertile soil in this area.

Cross over Rt. 539 (15.5) and continue on the Burlington Path to the intersection with Holmes Mill Road. Note the handsome brick house in the Federal style immediately in front of you (16.1). John F. Lawrence built this imposing structure in 1790. The farm on which it stands was purchased in 1873 by Joseph Holmes, Sr. (1810-1897) for his son Joseph Jr. (1849-1941) when he married Helen Giberson. It then became known as the Joseph Holmes Farm. Members of the Holmes family lived there until the late 1960’s.

The Lawrence family was very prominent in the early history of New Jersey and the United States. John Lawrence created the "Lawrence Line" when he surveyed the boundary between East and West Jersey in 1743. His son John was a physician. He was a graduate of Princeton and studied medicine at the Philadelphia Medical College, after which he practiced near Imlaystown. During the War of 1812, Dr. Lawrence’s grandson, Captain James Lawrence, of Burlington New Jersey, achieved lasting fame. In a hot fight of only 15 minutes, his ship the U.S.S. Hornet captured H.M.S. Peacock. Later in the war, to quote from the great naval historian, Samuel Elliot Morrison, "Captain Lawrence of unlucky Chesapeake, with a green and mutinous crew, unwisely accepted a challenge from Captain Broke of H.M.S. Shannon and sortied from Boston to defeat and glorious death on June 1, 1813. (Morrison, The Oxford History of the American People, Volume Two, Oxford University Press). As he lay mortally wounded, he uttered the immortal phrase, "Don’t give up the ship."

Turn left on Holmes Mill Road (16.1) and on your left is a house that was built as a creamery on the Joseph Holmes Farm (16.5) in 1881. A dairy cooperative was formed with Joseph Holmes as president and Collin Meirs (1833-1901) as superintendent and treasurer. To your right is Big Way Farm (16.7), owned and operated by the Search family. This was the last farm in Monmouth County to maintain a herd of dairy cows. The herd was dispersed in 2000. Previously the farm was the home of Collin Meirs who was killed by his prized Guernsey bull.

Now the road crosses the Lahaway Creek (17.8), one of the main tributaries of the Crosswicks Creek. At the confluence of these streams was located a village of the Lenape Indians known to archeologists as the Lenhart-Lahaway Hill site. In 1937-1938 a series of excavations discovered eight skeletons as well as numerous potsherds, arrowheads, and other artifacts. (For more on Native American archeology in Upper Freehold Township see Appendix).

On the northeast corner of the cross roads of Holmes Mill Road and Arneytown-Hornerstown Road (18.1) is a nursery owned by the Lamb family. The property has quite an interesting history. Before and during the Revolution Thomas Leonard, a notorious Tory, owned this farm. The Freehold Committee of Vigilance, a vigilante group favoring the American Cause, denounced him. When they came for him he was able to hide in the attic under the eves and escape capture. He was so frightened however that he abandoned his property and fled in disguise to St. Johns, New Brunswick by way of New York City. After the war the farm was confiscated and sold at a very low price. General Forman, a prominent Monmouth County patriot, bought it. In 1833 it was sold to Apollo Meirs. (1765-1855)

Turn right at the crossroad (18.1) toward Arneytown (see Appendix). Continue across Crosswicks Creek to Hill Road, which is on your right, and make the turn onto Hill Road (18.9). There are various small horse operations along here. Of special interest is Walnford Stud (19.8) on the right side of the road. This is a Thoroughbred Breeding facility owned and operated by the Jennings family. As you continue north on Hill Road note the Ridge Training Center (20.6) on the left. A public training center for Standardbred racehorses, it is owned and operated by the Matthews family. Mrs. Matthews also rides and shows American Saddle Breds. Next on the right is Hillsdale Farm (20.8), a Standardbred training farm owned and operated by the Gower family. The family of Dr. Stephen Perrine Dey, an equine veterinarian and Standardbred breeder also owns a great deal of the preserved farmland along this road.

Next you will make a right turn on Waln’s Mill Road and cross back over Crosswicks Creek on an old iron bridge (21.2). From here you have a partial view of Walnford a.k.a. Waln’s Mills. This will be the final destination of your tour, but it is not accessible from this direction. Continue your tour up a slight rise and Peace Fields Inn, a newly established bed and breakfast in a circa 1850 house is on your right. Reservations may be made by calling 609-259-3774. You will next arrive at the crossroads of Walnford Road and Polhemus Road called locally, for some unknown reason, "Raggedy Ass Corner" (22.0). Make a right at the intersection. The horse farm on the right is Fair Winds Farm. You passed the office of this farm on your way from Old Yellow Meeting House to Cream Ridge via the Burlington Path Road. The division of Fair Winds you see here is used primarily to raise and prepare market yearlings to be sold. Next on your left is nursery stock on land owned by Princeton Nurseries (the Flemmer family). (22.5) Princeton Nurseries is the largest single landowner in Upper Freehold Township with holdings of approximately 1300 acres. At a distance on your left you can see the Cream Ridge Winery. A comparatively new venture, it won the 2005 Governor’s Cup for New Jersey Winery of the Year. It is owned and operated by the Amabile family.

Continue to the stop sign and make a hard right at an obtuse angle onto Holmes Mill Road (23.0). Continue along this road with Fair Winds Farm on your right and the Cream Ridge Golf Club on your left (see Appendix) until you reach another crossroad (23.7). Turn right at this point and you are headed for Crosswicks Creek Park and Historic Walnford (24.3). They are the last stops on the Upper Freehold Historic Byway Tour.

Walnford or Waln’s Mill was a colonial village founded in 1734. When purchased in 1772 by Richard Waln (1737-1809), it consisted of a farm, several houses, two orchards, a sawmill, a gristmill for grinding grain, a fulling mill for wool cloth, a blacksmith shop and a cooper’s (barrel maker’s) shop. Thus began a family tenancy that would last for the next 200 years. The following year the mansion was constructed. It was said to be the largest house in Monmouth County at the time.

Richard was descended from Nicholas Waln (1650-1721), a Yorkshire Quaker who with his wife Jane Turner Waln immigrated to Philadelphia with William Penn in 1682. During the next century the Waln family prospered in mercantile pursuits. They owned trading ships and had their own wharf in Philadelphia. Richard thus had entry to trading circles and European markets that gave him an advantage over previous owners of the property. At this time the Crosswicks Creek was much wider and deeper than it is now and goods could easily be shipped by barge to the Delaware River and on to Philadelphia.

As a Quaker and pacifist, Richard attempted to remain neutral during the American Revolution, but probably favored the Loyalist Cause. In June 1778 as the British were executing their strategic retreat from Philadelphia through West Jersey which culminated in the Battle of Monmouth, the baggage train under the Hessian General Knyphausen crossed Crosswicks Creek at Walnford. The horse ridden by one of the Hessian officers became "mired" in the stream and the rider was thrown, losing a spur in the process. This was observed by Richard Waln’s son Nicholas, who was a boy at the time. Many years later he was able to recover the spur during some repair work to the dam. It is now on public display in the manor house. According to family lore, based on the eyewitness account of Nicholas, General Knyphausen and several of his officers were served a meal by the Waln family during this maneuver.

Finally, quoting again from Hodges, "Upper Freehold Quaker Richard Waln of Walnford worked assiduously to protect the rights of enslaved and free blacks. Waln wrote passionately to legislators pointing out abuse by unscrupulous masters and advocating the cause of emancipation." In 1804 legislation was enacted in New Jersey which led to the gradual abolition of slavery.

If after having completed your tour, you wish to return to Allentown, the starting point, simply follow Walnford Road back to Rt. 539. Fair Winds Farm and the Cream Ridge Golf Course will be on your left and on your right yet another preserved Standardbred farm, Birch Creek (The Januzelli Family). Turn left when you reach Rt. 539 and Allentown is just 3.5 miles down the road.

During 2003, the Upper Freehold Vision Committee was created. One of its assigned tasks was to develop a "Vision Statement" for the Township as recommended to be included within municipal master plans by the New Jersey State Office of Smart Growth.

The "Vision Statement" is to build upon the current goals and objectives with the Upper Freehold Township Master Plan and state a course of action to be pursued over future years to help assure that the goals and objectives are implemented.

As documented and stated in the currently adopted Master Plan, the Township of Upper Freehold is an agricultural and residential community that seeks to maintain its rural character, historic past and its quality natural resources. In order to achieve these objectives, it is the "vision" of the Township to appropriately balance private and public property rights, conserve natural and cultural resources, maintain active farming and open spaces, develop educational and recreational facilities and to preserve the prevailing quality of life; all in order to promote a sustainable future for all residents of the Township that is affordable and desirable.

The Township’s "vision" also recognizes that Upper Freehold is the extraordinary beneficiary of a partnership with Monmouth County that has resulted in significant funding for the Township’s farmland preservation program and for the protection of its natural environmental resources via the acquisition of buffers throughout the Crosswick’s Creek Watershed and Historic Walnford.

Summarily, it is the stewardship of Upper Freehold’s natural resources and agrarian tradition that frames the priorities set forth in the "vision statement", which includes the following recommended courses of action:

In addition to the Lenhardt-Lahaway Hill site mentioned in the text there are various other sites of archeological interest located in Upper Freehold. There is hardly a farmer in this community who hasn’t accumulated boxes of arrowheads, spear points and stone axe blades found while tilling his field or walking the numerous creeks and streams.

Of special interest is the Red Valley Site. Excavated 1936-1937 it is located off Miller’s Mill Road, 1-½ miles south east of Burlington Path Road and Red Valley Road. It stretches along both banks of Ivanhoe Creek on the Southern side of Sugar Loaf Hill. Over 115,924 cubic feet of earth was removed in an area 70" deep x 39,612 sq. ft. Seventeen Pits, 24 Caches 2,293 Stone Artifacts (including Banner Stones) and 1,104 Potsherds were recovered. Lenhardt and Red Valley showed extensive settlements at these water (creek) sites. Because of the depths that these artifacts were found (70" at Red Valley), conclusions were made at the time of the excavation that the site appears to be an Aboriginal Village of more or less, permanent occupation, which is backed up by the various refuse pits, cached objects and household equipment. In addition, items such as fish spears, net sinkers and also grubbing hoes showed both fishing and agriculture were pursued.

For more information see Cross, Dorothy, Archeology of New Jersey, Volume 1, published by the Archeological Society of New Jersey and the New Jersey State Museum, Trenton NJ 1941

Upper Freehold Township is a favorite site of paleontologists (fossil hunters) both professional and amateur. During the Cretaceous period of geological time (65,000,000-100,000,000) years ago, the entire area was covered by shallow tropical seas. The algae in these shallows became fossilized and were mined during the 19^th century as the mineral glauconite or green sand marl. Geologists refer to deposits of this mineral as the "Hornerstown Formation". Glauconite is high in potassium and was applied to fields as fertilizer before the development of manufactured fertilizers. Among the more interesting fossils from these marl beds was an ancestral crocodile, about 50 feet in length, named the Mosasaur. In 1869 a Mosasaur was excavated by the famous paleontologist O.C. Marsh from a pit operated by the Cream Ridge Marl Co. on Arneytown-Hornerstown Road. He named it Mosasaurus Meirsi in honor of John G. Meirs (1839-1909), president of the company. It is now exhibited at Yale University’s Peabody Museum.

There are also numerous Cretaceous outcrops scattered throughout the area. In these one can find various fossilized invertebrates of that period including Bellamites (squid remnants) as well as Gryphiae, Exogyra, and many other ancestral mollusks. These fossils were so common the town now called Ellisdale was once known as Shell Town. Ellisdale is located at the intersection of Province Line Road and Hill Road. A recent excavation near Ellisdale was noteworthy for the presence of tiny ancestral mammal fossils. Teeth were found of the Alphadon, an opossum like animal about the size of a squirrel. This was the first mammal fossil east of the Mississippi to be identified to the species level. It co-existed with dinosaurs and dinosaur fossils were also found at this location.

This charming forgotten town along the Lawrence Line between East and West Jersey has been designated a Historic District by the State of New Jersey. In Colonial times it was far busier than can be imagined today because its tavern served as a jumping off point for the arduous trip through the Pine Barrens to the iron furnaces and costal businesses of New Jersey. The tavern still stands in a remarkably good state of repair. It was operating before 1762. There is a Quaker cemetery still visible although the meetinghouse was abandoned long ago. The most famous (or rather infamous) resident has an unmarked grave. He is John Bacon, a notorious Pine Robber who was responsible for the massacre of a number of patriots on Long Beach Island. Eventually he was captured and killed by the Burlington County Militia near Tuckerton. They had planned to bury him under a crossroads. This was an ancient English tradition that was thought to be the ultimate insult possible. Bacon’s brother pleaded with the Militia and eventually they gave him the body for burial. The Pine Robbers were bands of desperadoes who favored the British cause. Using the wild Pine Barrens as a refuge, they murdered and robbed civilians during and even after the American Revolution.

Across from the cemetery is a handsome Colonial residence built in 1720. It is now the home of Dr. Calvin Moon, a retired veterinarian, and his wife.

During this tour of Upper Freehold Township you will note that there are several locations where the road crosses what appears to be an abandoned railroad right-of-way. That is exactly what it is. In 1830, the Camden and Amboy Rail Road & Transportation Co. was chartered. This was in an era when many small independent railroads were being financed and created. During the ensuing years, litigation, personality clashes, and name changes of the roads were common. The C & A became included with the United Companies. All of these in turn leased their lines to the Pennsylvania Rail Road. In 1888, The Pennsey decided to divest the portion that became the Union Transportation Co. This new line had stations at Hornerstown (with a spur to Hornerstown Marl), Cream Ridge, Davis Station, Imlaystown (actually located at Nelsonville), a stop at Shrewsbury (also known as Hayti), and Sharon. During the prime years of the U.T. both freight and passenger trains ran along these stops in a line that connected Pemberton and Hightstown.

Barrels of potatoes and cider from the Dawes Cider Mill were loaded at Nelsonville. Milk, naturally, from the stop at Cream Ridge, and mail, along with the customary variety of freight. Two World Wars boosted the activity, especially through Fort Dix and New Egypt. In fact, New Egypt was a vital freight terminal for components used in the construction of the Bomarc Missile Site in the Maguire Air Force Base wooded area.

The final operator over the tracks was Conrail. The last points of freight delivery were Applied Research Products, a company located in the former Richardson’s mill site at Davis Station, Agrico at Shrewsbury Crossing, and Kube-Pak in Nelsonville. In 1977 all activity ceased and in 1979 track was removed.

Currently, the Monmouth County Board of Recreation Commissioners is interested in utilizing Inter-modal Transportation Act Funds to secure a lease of the right-of-way for a trail to be used by walkers, joggers, roller bladders, and bikers.

Many of the local Township residents were officers in the Union Transportation Company and prior companies, and a number were office personnel and trainmen. Some still reside in the area. Several family names occur and reoccur in Upper Freeholds history and in the history of the U.T. Rue, Meirs, Holmes, Hendrickson, Johnson, Francis, Waln, Jones, Woodward, and others were, in today’s language, movers and shakers, better to say founders and leaders.

The Division of Fish and Wildlife operate this large tract of approximately 6,300 acres. It offers public hunting and fishing opportunities to licensed individuals. There are three lakes included: the largest of which, Lake Assunpink comprises 2,500 acres. All lakes are stocked with warm water game fish and managed accordingly. The Assunpink is a frequent site of bird dog field trails and may be used to exercise and train dogs. Horseback riding is permitted in designated areas, but a special permit must be obtained. There are also ranges available for shotgun and archery practice. For further information, visit the Conservation Center on Imlaystown-Hightstown Road or call 609-259-2132. Also located within the Assunpink is the home of the Monmouth Hunt. Formerly located near Red Bank in eastern Monmouth County, this group of mounted foxhunters has been active for well over a century. The hunt maintains a large pack of English Fox Hounds at their farm on East Branch Road. Before being acquired by the State, this farm was owned and operated by William Duryea, New Jersey’s second Secretary of Agriculture, 1925-1937.

This 421-acre tract is part of the Monmouth county Parks system. It may be entered from Emley’s Hill Road. There are five miles of trails that are used for hiking, horseback riding, and bicycling. The Park is named for the late Paul Clayton who farmed 140 acres of what is now the park. Paul never learned to drive an automobile or a tractor, but farmed all his life with horses. He died at age 107 in 1999.

Also a part of the Monmouth County Park system, this park consists of a section of the Crosswicks Creek and the land along both banks. It begins at the bridge on Rt. 537, 0.4 miles west of the intersection with Holmes Mill Road. The Park System maintains a launching access from Rt. 537 near the bridge from which canoes or kayaks may enter the stream.

This park on Rt. 524, which has been mentioned previously, hosts various equestrian events, including both English and Western style riding. There is also a cross-country course for three-day eventing and driving competitions. However it is not open for riding by the general public. Call 609-259-0170 for a schedule of events or to be placed on the mailing list.

This preserve is located at 786 Route 524, Allentown NJ 08501, phone # 609-259-9501 and ask for Randy Gravatt. It is on 500 acres and has quail, pheasant, chucker and Hungarian partridge. Pointing dogs are available for ½ day hunts for 1-4 guns.

This is an 18-hole regulation course and driving range. There is a restaurant with liquor license. It is open year round. Phone number 609-758-3588 or 800-427-8463

An 18-hole, par 71 course open to the public. The club is three miles south of Allentown on Rt. 539. A restaurant is located on the premises. Phone # 609-259-2849 ext. 13 or 800-345-4957.

The credit for the initiation of this project belongs to Upper Freehold resident Sue Kozel, who also served as Vice Chairwoman. Sue convinced Mayor John Mele of the benefits of such a program in the summer of 2003. Mayor Mele appointed the Vision/Scenic Byway Committee.

Our first responsibility was to create a "Vision Statement" for inclusion in the Upper Freehold Township Master Plans recommended by the NJ State Office of Smart Growth. A sub-committee was formed, under the leadership of former Mayor Fred Kniesler, consisting of Bob Abrams (a former Mayor), Marc Covitz, Sue Kozel and Brian Rath. Together they put together the required documents and it was then accepted by the Township Planning Board.

A second subcommittee, chaired by Marc Covitz selected the route to be taken and worked on the accompanying narrative. Those participating were Bob Abrams, Sal Diecidue, John Fabiano, Steve Fleischacker, Ruth Holmes-Honadle, Fred Kniesler and Sue Kozel. Contributions to the narrative were made by Bob Abrams (Archeology and Paleontology), John Fabiano, Ruth Holmes-Honadle, Fred Kniesler, and Sue Kozel (History). Sue Kozel donated her photography for the project and shot over 150 photos. She also compiled a Power Point presentation.

Other members of our committee who contributed in various ways were Steve Alexander, Rick Bentz, Jack Dawes, Bob Faber, Vince Gelsomino, Joe Mauer, Ed Mullen, Bill Search and Al Trenton.

We also want to thank Assemblyman Ronald S. Dancer, Liaison to the New Jersey State Assembly, David Byers, New Jersey Department of Transportation, and Joseph Barris, Principal Planner of the Monmouth County Planning Board for their advice and support.

Finally, a tip of the hat to my loyal and long suffering typist, Rosemarie Schroeder. Were it not for her endless patience with all the revisions and corrections we would never have gotten this enterprise off the ground

David A. Meirs, II, VMD, Committee Chair

Walnridge Farm

Hornerstown (Cream Ridge PO) New Jersey

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